Understanding textile materials is essential to avoid making mistakes when selecting fabrics according to specific needs. There are many types and qualities of fabrics available on the market. This knowledge also helps in maintaining fabrics properly.
Naturally, the first thing we need to understand is the definition of textiles themselves.
Definition and Function of Textiles
In Indonesian, the word tekstil is derived from the English word textile, which originates from the Latin texere, meaning “to weave” or “to construct.” Historically, the Indonesian term for fabric referred to something worn as clothing.
In general usage, textiles refer to any material made from yarn, while fabric refers to the finished product that we use or wear.
In modern terms, textiles are flexible sheet materials made from yarns derived from spun short fibers (staple fibers) or continuous fibers (filaments), formed through weaving, knitting, or bonding fibers into sheet structures, with or without adhesives (non-woven fabrics).
As clothing materials, textiles can be shaped and decorated through sewing, embroidery, tying, and other techniques. Although textiles are now everyday necessities, historically they have intersected with culture, politics, power, and conquest.
Today, the term textile broadly includes fabrics made by weaving, tying, pressing, or other manufacturing methods. Generally, fabric is produced from fibers that are spun or twisted into long yarns, which are then woven or knitted into finished cloth.
The countless varieties of fabric are influenced by fiber thickness, fiber composition, texture, and variations in weaving and knitting techniques.
Based on the book Selecting and Maintaining Textile Materials, textiles can be classified according to their function:
- Apparel textiles – for trousers, shirts, underwear, shoes, socks, and daily wear.
- Military textiles – for combat uniforms, parachutes, tents, and backpacks.
- Hospitality/medical textiles – for medical uniforms, bandages, patient gowns, and care equipment.
- Industrial textiles – for belts, product packaging, ropes, conveyors, and professional workwear such as mechanic or machine operator uniforms.
- Sportswear and sports textiles – for sports clothing with specific designs and specifications (football, tennis, swimming), as well as items like ping-pong nets and sails.
- Geotextiles – polyester-based materials used for soil reinforcement and structural support.
History of Textiles
The history of clothing began when early humans felt physically different from animals, which were naturally covered with fur. Humans began covering their bodies for protection.
In colder regions, clothing was made from animal skins and fur for warmth. In hotter regions, clothing was made from tree bark, grasses, and vines. These materials were also used for daily necessities such as carrying slings, mats, and head coverings.
Over time, humans discovered fibers that could be spun into yarn and woven into textiles as we know them today. Although the exact origin is unknown, textile production is believed to have begun in Asia.
Historical evidence shows weaving existed as early as 4000 BCE in Egypt. A mural from 2nd-century Europe even depicts a Madonna knitting.
Textile Materials
Textile materials are the raw materials used to produce fabric. Fabric is made from processed textile fibers, which are long, thin, and flexible substances.
Textile fibers are divided into two major categories: natural fibers and manufactured fibers.
Not all fibers can be processed into textiles. Suitable fibers must have:
- Proper length-to-width ratio
- Good strength
- Elasticity and stretchability
- Inter-fiber friction
- Water absorbency
- Resistance to heat and light
Natural Fibers
Natural fibers are formed naturally from plants or animals.
Plant-Based Fibers:
- Cotton (Gossypium) – known since 3000 BCE in India; spun into yarn and woven into cotton fabric.
- Ramie (Boehmeria nivea) – one of the oldest textile fibers; produces smooth satin-like fabric.
- Flax (Linum usitatissimum) – produces linen; high-quality flax comes from France, Belgium, and the Netherlands.
- Abaca (Musa textilis) – derived from banana family plants in the Philippines.
- Hemp (Cannabis sativa) – strong plant fiber from annual plants.
Animal-Based Fibers:
- Silk – produced from silkworm cocoons (Bombyx mori being the highest quality).
- Wool – derived from sheep fleece; properties depend on breed.
- Cashmere – from cashmere goats; soft, warm, lightweight.
- Camel hair – used for high-quality men’s clothing and carpets.
- Mohair – from Angora goats; shiny and durable.
- Angora rabbit fiber – used for knitwear, hats, and fiber blends.
Manufactured Fibers
Manufactured fibers are filament fibers derived from polymers and are categorized into:
- Regenerated fibers (from natural polymers)
- Viscose rayon
- Acetate rayon
- Cuprammonium rayon
- Synthetic polymer fibers
- Polyester
- Polyamide (nylon 6 and nylon 66)
- Polyurethane
- Polyvinyl
- Inorganic fibers
- Metal fibers
- Glass fibers (fiberglass)
- Asbestos fibers
Each fiber type has distinct properties that influence processing methods and the characteristics of the final textile product.
Textile Care
Different textile materials require different maintenance methods. For example, cotton garments require different care compared to polyester fabrics.
Proper textile care aims to:
- Support physical, mental, and social well-being
- Enhance personal confidence and self-esteem
- Extend durability and lifespan
Popular Types of Textile Products
According to the book Know Textiles, some popular finished textile types include:
- Lace
- Linen
- Velvet
- Organza
- Cashmere
- Thai silk
- Patchwork fabric
- Fur
- Terry cloth
- Jacquard
